WAJD Learning

Module 3 of 3 · 40 minutes

Punctures: fix it properly, and stop it happening again

By the end of this module you will be able to

  • Repair or replace an inner tube at the roadside without tools you do not have
  • Find the cause of the puncture rather than just the hole
  • Fit a tyre without a lever and without pinching the tube
  • Choose pressure sensibly for the rider, the tyre and the surface

Work through it

1 interactive for this module, built on the WAJD Teach engine. Nothing moves until you ask it to, and every one has a written version if you would rather read it.

Amara I can change a tube. I still get a puncture again a mile later about half the time.

Nadia Then you are skipping the only step that matters, and so does nearly everybody. You are fixing the hole and leaving the cause sitting in the tyre.

Amara The flint is still in there.

Nadia The flint, the thorn, the tiny shard of glass. Before you fit anything, run your fingers all the way round the inside of the tyre. Carefully, because if there is something sharp in there you are about to find it with your fingertip.

Amara Is there a trick to knowing where to look?

Nadia Yes, and it is the thing that separates people who fix punctures from people who replace tubes. Line the tube up with the valve hole in the rim, find the puncture, and then look at exactly that spot in the tyre. You have just told yourself where the cause is.

Amara What does the hole itself tell me?

Nadia Quite a lot. One small hole on the outer face is a sharp object. Two little holes side by side on the inner face is a snakebite, a pinch flat, and that one is not about sharp objects at all.

Amara What causes those?

Nadia Low pressure and a hard edge. The tyre bottoms out, the tube gets pinched between the rim and whatever you hit. So the fix is not a better tyre, it is more air, or riding lighter over the edges.

Amara Anything else?

Nadia A hole on the rim side, or around the valve, often means rim tape that has slipped and exposed a spoke hole. Worth a look, because a new tube will do exactly the same thing.

Amara Right. Fitting. What goes wrong?

Nadia Pinching the new tube under the bead. It is the reason a repair fails within thirty seconds of inflating and it is entirely avoidable.

Amara How?

Nadia Put just enough air in the tube to give it shape. Not firm, just shaped. Fit the valve first, push the stem up into the tyre so it seats, then work the bead on with your thumbs away from the valve in both directions.

Amara Everybody reaches for a tyre lever at the last bit.

Nadia And the last bit is exactly where levers pinch tubes. Try thumbs first. There is a knack: push the already fitted bead down into the well in the centre of the rim, and suddenly you have enough slack to get the last section on by hand.

Amara Before I inflate?

Nadia Push the tyre sideways all the way round on both sides and check no tube is peeking out. Then inflate to about a third, and look at the bead line, the little moulded line just above the rim. It should be evenly visible all the way round, both sides. If it wanders, the tyre is not seated. Let it down and start again, because an unseated tyre can blow off the rim.

Amara Last question. Pressure. I have always just pumped to the maximum on the sidewall.

Nadia That number is a range, not an instruction, and riding at the maximum is usually slower, harsher, and more puncture prone on real roads, not less. Heavier rider, more air. Wider tyre, less. Rough or wet, less. Then adjust by feel: pinch flats mean go up, harsh and skittery means come down.

The written material

The step everybody skips

Almost everyone who has ever fixed a puncture badly skipped the same step: they did not find out what caused it. They fitted a new tube, rode two miles, and punctured again in exactly the same place, because the flint that caused it is still in the tyre.

Before you fit anything, run your fingers carefully around the inside of the tyre. Carefully, because if there is something sharp in there you are about to find it with your fingertip. Use a rag or the back of a pen if you would rather.

What the hole tells you

A single small hole on the outer face: a sharp object, usually still in the tyre.

Two small holes side by side on the inner face, the classic snakebite: a pinch flat. The tyre bottomed out on an edge and the tube was pinched against the rim. The cause is low pressure or too hard an impact, not a sharp object.

A split along the rim side, or a hole around the valve: often rim tape that has slipped and exposed a spoke hole, or a valve that has been stressed by riding at low pressure so the tube moved inside the tyre.

A long tear: this tube is finished, and check the tyre for a matching cut.

Fitting without pinching

The single most common cause of a repair that fails immediately is pinching the new tube under the tyre bead while fitting it.

Put just enough air in the tube to give it shape, no more. Fit the valve first and push the valve stem up into the tyre so it seats properly. Work the tyre bead on with your thumbs, working away from the valve in both directions, and leave the hardest section for last. Before inflating, push the tyre sideways all the way round on both sides and check the tube is not peeking out anywhere.

Try to fit the final section with your thumbs rather than a lever. Levers are what pinch tubes. If you must use one, use it slowly and keep the tube pushed away from the bead.

  • Inflate to a third of pressure, check the bead line sits evenly all the way round both sides, then inflate fully
  • An uneven bead line means the tyre is not seated and it will thump or blow off
  • Carry a spare tube, not just patches. Patch the punctured one at home in the warm

Pressure, honestly

The pressure moulded into the sidewall is a range, not an instruction. Riding at the maximum is slower, harsher and more likely to puncture on rough surfaces, not less.

Heavier riders need more, wider tyres need less, and rough or wet surfaces want less than smooth dry ones. As a starting point, a 25mm road tyre with an average rider is happy around 80 to 90 psi, a 35mm hybrid tyre around 50 to 60, and a 2.2 inch mountain bike tyre around 22 to 28. Then adjust by feel: if you are getting pinch flats, go up; if the ride is harsh and skittery, come down.

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